Spaghetti alla carbonara - charcoal maker's spaghetti

1. Set pasta water to boil. Meanwhile, dice the meat, sauté it in a tablespoon of oil till it's well cooked, and drain the pieces on a paper towel. As soon as the water boils, salt it and add the pasta.

2. While the pasta's cooking, lightly beat the yolks and one or two whites (just one white if you're using the cream). As soon as the yolks and whites are combined, beat in the cheese, pinches of salt and pepper, and the cream, if you're using it.

3. When the pasta's done, drain it and transfer it immediately to a heated bowl. Add the pancetta and pour the egg mixture over the pasta, stirring briskly (the heat of the pasta will cook the eggs). Serve immediately.

4. One thing -- given the risk of salmonella from commercially produced eggs, you may want to use dried eggs unless you buy from a trusted delicatessen or have access to true farm-fresh eggs. Unfortunately, I have no experience with egg substitutes.
Another thing -- Romans use guanciale, cured pig's jowl, which is more delicate than pancetta, and also leaner. If you can find it, by all means use it. Otherwise, either pancetta or bacon will work well.

5. The wine? A white, from the Castelli Romani.